Spain: Andalucia and Gibraltar

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The great emperor Charles V never finished his place on top of the Moorish king's stronghold at Granada. (above)
Days 7, 8 & 9: Home of la Reconquista, the energy of Spain

Notes and Tips:

Andalucia was, by far, the most interesting part of the Spanish leg of our trip. Ghosts walk around everywhere, as history is alive and breathing around every corner. You come across Moorish castles in every town and evidence of ancient battles like the one that made Spain when Ferdinand and Isabella defeated the Moors in 1492. People here seem to live with simplicity and passion. It is certainly the only place that seems to have a flamenco channel on the TV. The natural beauty was like driving across the entire American West in only a few hundred miles. This was most surprising. Junipers and snow-capped peaks, beautiful wetlands and desert malpais, all within an easy day's drive. Take the pricey pay roads to save time or else you'll be winding around a round-about every mile or so. No one is usually in a hurry here, though. Gibralatar was an interesting change of scenery. We parked in Spain and walked across the airport into the city-state in search of England and apes.

 

Most scenic: hard to choose, so Las Tabernas Desert

Surprises: The beautiful fountains of the Alcazar of Granada

Easy to miss, but don't:  The Rock of Gibraltar

Wildlife: Flamingos and Barbary apes

Exciting: The hairpin turns in the Sierra Nevadas

Most low-key: Gardens of the caliph in Granada 

Free fun: La Linea beaches

Don't: Forget to bring some water if you come in summer like we did

 

Road Diary:

Day 7, 7/13: The heat in Granada

Written at Blumen Hostel in Algeciras, Andlacia, Spain. Dangerously hot and dry, wildfires nearby, sunny with a record-breaking 111° at Granada. At Malaga it was 84° and hazy. Woke up at Santa Fe, the city built by Ferdinand and Isabella as their camp when they attacked Granada. Thus would be our plan, despite hesitations. It promised to be very hot and crazy with tourists and no parking. It's supposed to be hard to get tickets. Got McDonald's for lunch and ordered on a screen. Very different fries and sauces than at home. Al-Hambra parking was 8€ and not too far from our location. They made it easy to get here from the autopista. We missed the opportunity to purchase general tickets by two people so we got tickets good for all, but the main Moorish palace. This was fine enough and we paid 14€ for all of us. Explored the manicured avenue that led to the empty Renaissance Palace of Charles V. It was empty when he built it too, since no one wanted to move with him here. There was an interesting museum inside the place. We stopped often for water or to soak our scarves in the many fountains the intelligent caliphs built. For a sideshow, we watched a wildfire nearby being put out by helicopters. We  walked around the Alcazar finding many wonders from the Islamic Middle Ages and spectacular views of clogged city below. Left around 4pm, opting not to explore the gardens due to heat. We headed down the long road to Malaga stopping twice along way for bathrooms or food. Malaga's Castillo de Santa Catalina was full of great great high views of a vibrant large cruise port city and cooled by a constant and refreshing Mediterranean breeze. There was a band practiving for a concert later and playing traditional Andalusian music. We stopped at Aldi and BK for what we needed and then west along AP7 and then A7 for about an hour to Algeciras. Saw the Rock of Gibraltar in the distance and huge mountains on the way. Algeciras is an unapologetically industrial city. Hotel is just okay and good enough. It is mostly clean and had a weird key that turns on lights. [This later proved to be the rule and not the exception.] Paper thin walls.

 
 

Road Diary:

Day 8, 7/14: Gibraltar Hike

Written at Abajes Loja in Loja, Andlacia, Spain.

 Hazy, a few minutes of mist then sunny with high of 85°, thanks to the cool sea breezes. Woke up in Algeciras and left hostel. Drove to Santa Barbara parking facility at the border with Gibraltar (15€ all day) and walked through customs easily, first Spain then Gibraltar. There is an airplace crosswalk after you pass customs. We had to wait for two airplanes at border with crowds of people and cars with bikes threading in between. Gibraltar was busy and a bit dirty and lived in. It was composed of big buildings with impersonal entrances. The Rock towered over it all. Went past old bastions through the "Landport" to Casemates Square and had pricey fish and chips at Al Fresco. We needed energy needed for hike up Castle Steps to Willis Road and paid 2€ to enter the national park. Saw Moorish castle, which was home to two monkeys. Here we hiked up and up, sweating like piggies. Had great views and passed antiquities of all sorts like a lime kiln, bunkers, and a base for cannons where a smart ice cream vendor was working. Took Old Queen Rd past odd hippie houses with cacti gardens to Ape Den and Charles' Wall and saw and played with many frisky monkeys. This proved super entertaining for all as they grabbed peoples' hats and jumped on men and girls uninvited. I was fearing for my life, quite honestly. Climbed wall to Queen Rd and walked back down to town exhausted and calves burning. Drank a gallon of water and sat for a long time recovering in square. Did a bit of shopping and headed out of town. Got car and drove to the free roadside beach at La Linea under rock. Swam with kids in cool Mediterranean water. Then stopped for groceries and ate cured ham on our 2.5 hour drive to Loja. This hotel is for international tourists and room was cheap, but truck stop store attached is prohibitively expensive. AC in room, but it did not have enough power to work and so we enjoyed a hot uncomfortable night.

Road Diary:

Day 9, 7/15: The Sierras and the Desert

Written at Cartagena, Murcia, Spain. Sunny, temps varied based on location widely highest was 103°, most of day spent in upper 80s. Woke up in Loja and headed into town for gas and food. This all took way longer than I hoped. Then headed west, backtracking along the base of scenic cloud covered mountains near Bodadillo in search of salt marshes and flamingos. Found the Laguna Fuente de Piedra National Reserve was unguarded and lonely, except for one person in the VC. The reserve was a scenic salt flat like the kind in northernmost California. We walked around to blinds on small ponds which ranger said was kept wet by the park service. It hasn't rained here except for one day in the last month. Saw ducks and birds under canopy. Then two more blinds each had flamingos. Amazing birds which I have never seen in the wild. They were eating mostly. Walled back and found VC was on siesta. Drove south along Laguna to other ponds including Laguna Dulce, but these were smelly and devoid of life. Drove east past Loja again and then past Granada's north. It was hottest here. We passed badlands and then mountains. It was much like scenery in the US West. We got off the autopista and drove along side roads and explored, getting lost as free range  goats, guarded by an attentive dog, covered the narrow road near Prado Negro. Stopped at the deep turquoise water and a canyons of Abellan Reservoir for a walk. Then drove east to road up to Sierra Nevada National Park, past the castle at Calahorra. Went up super narrow A337 to lofty pass and enjoyed beautiful mountain scenery. Some poop here from large animals, probably cows or elk. Descended same way we came up,  past bicycles. Headed east and veered into the stunning Desert of Tabernas, with its cacti, palms, and badlands we were curiously hiking around and bumping into sharp rocks and caves. We learned this was the place where they filmed the Good the Bad and the Ugly. Went northeast through desert to the ruins of Castillo de Tabernas. Horses being ridden and everyone knows each other here. They also knew we weren't from around here. Continued on toll road and others tinto the night until we got to Cartagena where we got a room in a very small hotel.

 
 
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