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Along Mexican Route 1 on the Baja
Pacific coast between Rosarito and Ensenada. (above) |
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Days 28-31:
Dipping into Baja California and Sonora |
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Notes and Tips:
This was the first time I brought a car
into Mexico and had no problem doing so. They look around
carefully, but didn't ask too many questions. There are
checkpoints here and there, though, especially into and out of
major cities. The seaside in Ensenada and vicinity is beautiful
and the cool Pacific air is so refreshing. East of the mountains
the heat is intense, but a dip in the Sea of Cortez can cool
you. All around Baja the fish and shrimp is cheap and plentiful.
Exciting:
La Bufadora
Most low-key:
roadside tacos
Free fun:
Ensenada park
Don't:
Forget the ice or drive
at night
Most scenic:
Playa Saldamando
Surprises:
Sacred heart statue and
other shrines, garbage fires
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Day 28, 8/4: Ensenada
Playa Saldamando #11, Ensenada, BC.
Hi
78, pc.
Took time in morning since
borders are busy during rush hour. Left at 11. Took
awhile to find a working ATM near the San Ysidro
border so we'd have cash then changed $100 to
MX$1880. Went across border surprised at how easy it
was. We were chosen for a search, but agent simply
opened our side door and satisfied we were legit, told
us to bugger off. No passport check. Easily passed
gritty Tijuana using new road to the 4D Toll which
turned into Route 1D. The three tolls to Ensndada were
31 pesos each. Passed huge Sacred Heart statue
on hill south of Rosarito. Got off at Pulpita to see
fishing village but lost it, causing us to be checked by
military on way back. Lots of pots being sold here. So
continued down 1 until it turned east to La
Mision. Found mission ruins and back to 1 where
towns and cities spread out a bit. High on cliffs
overlooking scenic seashore and fishermen. Got off on
shoulder to enjoy view a few times. Found campground at
Km94. It had remote cliffside location and
inaccessibility for quietness. Had cabins on old
converted trailers and dispersed campsites along miles
of rocky shore overlooking Salsipuedes Bay.
Also had a small sandy beach. Set up on romantic ledge
overlooking the bay near the sound of the sea roaring.
Went to Ensenada and found parking near
city center. Walked the parks with free WiFi. Lots of
police around here. Families enjoying the sun in the
park, which had a deluxe playground, musical fountain,
awesome historic monuments, and the famous gigantic
flag. Then walked Calle Mateo finding several fish carts.
Shopped at stores here and there, said no to pushy
peddlers, until they started closing. Could not find
bagged ice anywhere. Finally got some gratis by making a
deal with a 711 owner who was letting some melt in an
outdoor display. Took roads back to camp but no exit
coming from south so we had to overshoot by 6 scenic km
and come back. Let kids swim until sunset then went to
tent and sat on edge of cliff against firewall listening
to waves break and looking at stars, discussing history
and grammar. Ana: "What are those white things?" They
were stars.
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Day 29, 8/5: La Bufadora
Playa Saldamando #11,
Ensenada, BC.
Hi 80, cloudy then
sunny. Awakened by fishing boats
clanging outside at 4 am. Waves all night. Then woke
again and in day and cleaned out van well. Watched
fishing boats and dolphins and sea lions from camp. Got
another night from the landlord as bigger groups coming
in for weekend. Went past Ensenada
which had a Carnival ship at port, along 1 into main
truck route lined with superstores, an air force base,
and university. Beggars and vendors at every light.
Eventually made it out of town and around to the
peninsula along BC23. Some agriculture along road and
vineyards. Occasional villages had taco stands, etc.
Stopped at a tamale hut near the lagoon. Then went west
up a super scenic road on bluffs over Bahia
Todos Santos. Stopped at top near abandoned
ranch to eat tamales. Then we approached La
Bufadora and paid $2 to park. The path to the
park was lined with hundreds of vendors selling
everything imaginable from Viagra to Pina Colada and
oysters, to t-shirts and Bob Marley paintings. Pushy in
some places. This quieted at park border and the
thunderous sound of Bufadora took over. Beautiful
volcanic notches and islands, one covered with a gull
colony. The waves hit Bufadora and the marine geyser
exploded delighting everyone. As cruise people left,
vendors seemed more desperate. Andrew getting hot in sun
so we cooled him off in van with water. Left for town
and and visited Wal-Mart for supplies and candy. Left on
local side road lined with essential businesses. Stopped
on way in to get shrimp tacos where
locals were eating from side of road. Walked to downtown
and park to blow bubbles, talk to people, and relax a
bit. Watched ship leave port. Then walked main streets a
bit, going into couple shops. Everyone touching Ana's
hair and a few asked for photos with her. Sun going down
and so got more tacos and left town, getting Pemex and
ice on the way to camp. At camp set up a little fire
with Sayner wood and sat on blanket looking at stars,
listening to the hard surf. Then to bed, removing the
sand Ana left everywhere. Weekend campers all over, but
still some open spots. Yesterday we were alone in this
world. |
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Day 30, 8/6: San Pedro Martir
Kiki's Park #26, San Felipe, BC.
Hi 106, cloudy in morning then sunny.
Woke up in the cool wind of the Pacific and now trying to sleep in
the heat of the Sonoran desert, tempered only by a ocean breeze. Ate
camp breakfast and broke camp slowly. Began morning in
Ensenada getting off at scenic viewpoint. Then changed some
money and saw fave taco guy, but he was out of tortillas. Drove
around city looking for road to San Felipe. Signage is rough. Got
tacos on one corner. Then found Route 3 and headed up into the
San Pedro Martir mountains. Temp went up as we went
and plants kept changing. Called the "Wine and Cheese Road,"
but saw more cows than vineyards. Lots of roadside shrines. After a
couple hours made it through a second, more stringent military
checkpoint and turned down Route 5. Could see sandy desert and sea.
20 mins later stopped at Pemex for ice and cold snacks. It was 106
degrees. Drove into center of San Felipe then got
camping near the Morro north of city at Kiki's.
Lots of Mexicans and Californians here blasting sad Mexican music
and enjoying the beach. Site has a small space, close to neighbors,
shelf and roof structure called polopa. Then went
to malecon in town for views, fish tacos, and shopping. Went to camp
and swam in fun, bath-warm waters of the Sea of Cortez.
Then tried to set up tent on polopa but didn't fit. Instead set tent
on ground where there is car and foot traffic. Went to beach in dark
to feel some cool breeze. People blasting Mexican love songs from all over and
screaming at each other, mostly drunk bbqs. It is well past 1:22am, as I write this.
I'm very tired. Tomorrow will be hard. But when in Rome... don't
complain. |
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Day 31, 8/7: San Luis Border
HoJo, Yuma, AZ. Hi 100, Sunny.
Woke uncountable times over night because of noise: loud talking and
whining love ballads.
It was quiet for about an hour or two, but at sunrise, the music was
blasting again. Then the desert sun came out and did its thing.
Tried to nap on roof of polopa to little avail. Headphones helped a
bit. Broke camp in sweat and went to San Felipe.
Spent some time looking for lost stuff while Jess went into shop for
curios. Then, tired, drove north through military checkpoints and
desert which at some points was just sand dunes and salt flats.
Little santas guarded the road in their shrines. Drove around
Mexicali (next time, don't) to cross the Rio Colorado
into state of Sonora. Sonora was much less well off
than Baja and towns were rough. I was able to negotiate gas prices
at Pemex with dollars. Finally got to San Luis Rio Colorado,
exhausted. Found border after some trouble and kind of cut in line
and got thru in 15 mins. Us Customs very nice to us and trouble
free. Drove along border wall, noting Mexican garbage fires across
the wall, to Yuma for Cracker Barrel and got advice
from waitress about northern AZ travels. Tired from last night so we
booked a hotel room at 4pm. Went to Wal-Mart for supplies, then to
hotel where I could barely move. Kids went to pool as sun fell and
heat relaxed. I drifted in and out and then went out to join family
at pool. A few people talking to Jess as kids splashed. One was
Marine who was going back soon. He had a troubled past and really
seemed to want to talk so we did for a long time. Then got Carl Jr's
which made me sick later, destroying even more sleep time.
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| • Photos copyright and all
other content
copyright 2016-17 by splencner • |
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